Wednesday, 26 June 2013

San Carlos de Bariloche, Patagonia, Argentina

From El Calafate we made the bus journey to Bariloche, the Argentinean Lake District in Patagonia.

Matt: We naively thought the bus would head directly north on the famous Ruta 40, straight to Bariloche... This was the last time we made any assumptions in Argentina!

The first stop was Rio Gallegos... 4 hours to the east on the Atlantic coast. WTF? Well, after picking up another passenger (taking the total number of passengers on the 50+ seat coach to 7... including us, Alison and Joel!!) the bus headed north, hugging the coast for around 10 hours.

Finally the driver turned left and headed west to Bariloche. By our estimation, we had around 14 hours left. That is until the bus was pulled over at a police checkpoint in the middle of nowhere. After a local copper checked the Argentine passengers' IDs, a few minutes passed before the Feds hopped on board with sniffer dog in tow, and hauled off one of the passengers (not one of us, I hasten to add!) and took him in to the checkpoint building.

Having decided to waive any form of discretion such as closing the door or drawing the blinds, the Feds proceeded to search the man's luggage in full view of the bus, causing him to thrust his head into his hands. The officer then extracted a plastic bag which he then emptied onto a set of electric scales. Out tumbled either the largest collection of beef stock cubes of all time, or a rather large haul of hashish!

At this point, around 1 hour after stopping, the driver updated us saying "Only 10 minutes more" before putting a feature length film on the TV system. Well, we all figured this poor chap was going to get cuffed and jailed... Not a bit of it. The drivers got involed and brewed up a cup of mate (tea) to share with the Feds and the guy repacked his bags, got back on the bus and relaxed as if nothing had happened. Eh? Now we were confused.

After a 2 hour discussion, much tea drinking and some mysterious paper-signing, the drivers got back on board and continued our trip without batting an eye lid. Maybe I'm being cynical, but one might suspect there was going to be a great party at the checkpoint that night!

We continued through the harsh wilderness of Patagonia (see the view from the bus below) and, some 30 hours after leaving El Calafate, FINALLY arrived in the beautiful lakeside town of Bariloche.



Bariloche is famous for it's tasty chocolate. Where better to reward ourselves the next morning with chocolate smoothies and coffees. 

Sarah: The best drink I have ever had - raspberry and chocolate smoothie


As there were four of us, it was cheap enough to hire a car for the day. This was the best way to visit the seven lakes.

Sarah: Joel and Matt clearly having a lot of fun with a water bottle!



We were lucky enough to see Condors, the Lord of the Andes, which are a rare sight these days.


We continued through the lake district which was the most diverse scenery we have seen yet, lush green forests, snow-capped mountains and then dry, barren desert.







The round trip took us about six hours


When we came back to the lake in Bariloche, the wind was 70kph. It made an amazing spectacle...






At the end of the day, we had the best rib-eye steak so far. It warranted a photo of the chef.

Sarah: Alison and I just wanted a nice pic of Martin (the chef) so we asked the boys to stand in front of the bbq. 



The next day, the Aussies left us and we hired some bikes to check out Parque National Nahuel Huapi


Sarah: Matt always says, I am the slowest cyclist in the world - I definitely didn't disappoint him on this day - it was up, down, up, down and up, down for 4 hours! I am still the slowest cyclist in the world who now also likes to walk uphill with a bike every now and then as well.

Matt: Hold on! Here's evidence of Sarah tackling a bloody steep hill without setting foot on the road. Fair play! (Although she is still the slowest cyclist in the world...)





We were told that this is the hotel that the Latin America version of the G8 summit is held. All the South American presidents come here to talk about VERY important things. Luckily, there wasn't a meeting whilst we were there as the whole town is shut down for it.


We then said good-bye to the Lake District and continued north to begin the epic wine-tasting adventure....

Monday, 17 June 2013

El Calafate & El Chalten, Santa Cruz, Argentina

After our extended stay in freezing Tierra del Fuego we headed north through the southern tip of Chile and back into Argentinian state of Santa Cruz. It might be further north, but it still felt like a long way from home!


21 hours after leaving Tierra del Fuego (via a bumpy bus ride and 2 border crossings) we arrived, bleary eyed, in the snowy city of El Calafate...


The no.1 reason to visit El Calafate is to see the Perito Moreno Glacier in Parque Nacional Los Glaciares; one of the very few remaining glaciers that is still growing (up to 2m per day!). At 60m high and over 30km long, it's an astonishing spectacle...


 

It was pretty foggy when we first arrived, but the mists parted with perfect timing as we reached the network of viewing platforms and trails...




As you walk along the walkway you can hear loud creaks and cracks as chunks shear off the face and into the lake. As soon as you hear a noise it's a race to see where the ice is falling. If you're lucky, you'll see blocks of ice easily the size of a house crash into the still lake.






Matt: The glacier might be pretty damned amazing, but the best reason to visit is for the hot chocolate. It was, without a shadow of a doubt, the most intense, rich and outright gorgeous hot choc I've ever had. Mmmmm...


The next day we woke up at the crack of dawn for the 2.5hr bus ride north to the mountain town of El Chalten, at the base of the famous Fitz Roy peak. As we headed up on Route 40 our early start was rewarded with a spectacular sunrise...


We began our trek with no other people in sight. However, we were looking out for our Aussie friends who, despite booking their coach ticket to El Chalten through the same hostel, were put on a different coach to us. Both coaches left around the same time and both had only 3 people on each (this is the Argentinian way!).


The trek through two feet of snow was tough but the views were worth it.



Sarah: I was testing out some new facial hairstyles along the way


Sarah: Matt was REALLY happy to take a break along the route!


After a seemingly long trek to the viewpoint (although it took only 2 hours) we were very happy to see the Fitz Roy peaks!


Our Aussie friends, Alison and Joel, arrived about 20 minutes later (even though their coach arrived 40 minutes after ours). They were hardcore!


Sarah: Matt and I were so happy to have some other people's company!!


The view heading back down to the town. Another place where photos don't do it justice...




Joel drying out his socks whilst we waited for our coach home. This time we were pleased we weren't on the same one! (Just kidding guys!)


It finally felt as though we had some momentum north, so we booked our tickets for the bus journey to Bariloche in Patagonia. Surely they would take the direct path straight up Route 40, which wouldn't take too long...?

Never make assumptions in Argentina!!!

Thursday, 13 June 2013

Ushuaia, Tierra del Fuego, Argentina

The world's southern most city...


The great outdoors, trekking in Tierra del Fuego National Park





4x4 excursion across the peninsula to Lago Fagnano


passing a few huskies on the way....


 

Admiring the view (bloody freezing!)...


 Larking about off road...






Next stop, barbecue on the beach...






We made a friend...






Checking out the wildlife on the boat trip across
 the Beagle Channel...



Penguins...


Cormorants


Hundreds of sea lions...






A lone Elephant Seal


A swift walk on Bridges Island






A trek up to the Martial Glacier with an amazing view of the Beagle Channel...




A hard slog uphill...we never seem to pick the easy route!





Sledging all the way down....on a plastic bag...


After three cancelled flights due to cold weather, we bit the bullet and took the 20 hour bus ride through Chile and back to Argentina. Never been so glad to be on a ferry!